The Mississippi

Reaching the Mississippi feels like a real milestone. I had held on to a romantic notion of boys on homemade rafts with straw hats and maybe a banjo or two. The truth can't be anything but disappointing after that.

The great thing about the Mississippi for cruisers is the current.  We typically travel at about 6.5 mph (we have switched to statute miles on the rivers because the mile markers are all statute) but with the current behind us we topped out at 10.8 yesterday!

The first big landmark on the journey down the Mississippi is St. Louis and I have to say it is the most miserable place we have passed on the trip so far.  There is no access to the waterfront for the citizens of the city or for cruisers passing through. What a wasted opportunity.  Even at the famous St. Louis arch there appears to just be a parking lot on the river. Compare these to the pictures of Chicago from a month ago:

The St. Louis riverfront has lots of abandoned industry.

Even the arch isn't very picturesque from the river.  That's our friends on Darwin in the foreground.

Someone decided to spruce up the place with this weird leg and skirt statue.

Our first stop on the Mississippi was the same as every other Looper's - Hoppies Marina.  Hoppies is a collection of rundown barges in Kimmswick, Missouri with fuel pumps but no other services (not even showers :( ). Everyday the owner, Fern, gives a briefing to all the Loopers on what to expect on the next 200 miles or so of the journey.  She points out anchorages she recommends, give phone numbers to contact locks, and tells us all exactly where the guide books got it wrong.  They run a very tight ship at Hoppies and while you are there you shut up and do what you are told!

Fern's daily briefing

Kimmswick was a pretty town with lots of interested ruins and abandoned buildings.