North from Ocracoke we stayed in
Manteo, NC. The town has all you need
and plenty of space on two free docks.
You can pay a per-person fee to use the facilities at the marina next
door (laundry, showers).
After Manteo we had a decision to
make – do we take the Virgina Cut or the Dismal Swamp Canal? Reg voted for the Virginia Cut based on names
alone but we ending up taking the Dismal.
We were told is was prettier, had more free docks to tie up at, and has
speed restrictions so is really only used by cruisers.
The Dismal is the oldest continuously
operated lock system in North American (the Rideau is the next oldest). George Washington ordered its construction which
began in 1793. Over the next 12 years
the canal was hand-dug by slaves whose owners were paid for their labour.
Apparently there was once a hotel on the canal which ran across the North
Carolina – Virgina state line. It was a
popular place for duels as the dead person ended up in one state and the
shooter in another which meant they were rarely (ever?) prosecuted. We didn’t
see any rogue duels on our passage.
The trip up the Dismal was
lovely. Free docks, friendly lock masters
and bridge operators, pretty scenery, and no fee to transit. I think we made the right choice.
The night before we entered the Dismal we stayed in Elizabeth City, home to the most boring street names in North America |
Down the Dismal |
We had our bug screens up because we had heard it was quite buggy (it wasn't really). Here Riley pokes his nose out the window like a dog in a car. |
The water in much of the ICW is the colour of root bear. Compare this to my photos from the Bahamas or even northern Lake Michigan. |
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